The scoop on DC's locally made gelato

Brian Tropiano via United With Love

It’s April and it’s already sweltering out – pretty soon, we’ll be in the throes of another hot DC summer. When you’re trying to stay cool, there’s no more delicious way to do it than a spoonful of local artisanal gelato.

Dolci Gelati is based right here in Washington, DC. It opened up five years ago, and has grown to supply gelato to crowds at the National Zoo, the Nationals stadium, the Italian embassy, stores and restaurants up the East Coast, and—of course—P&C Market. I recently ventured out to the company’s gelato “laboratory” to meet the chef and to see for myself how all this delicious gelato is made.

Where the magic happens

The man behind the frozen goodness is Italy native Gianluigi Dellaccio. When we meet, he’s dressed in a sharp suit, with big sleek sunglasses. He gives me a tour, explaining along the way with an Italian accent. The laboratory’s a maze of kitchens, contraptions, and walk-in freezers. A few minutes after I arrive, I’m handed a sample of his handiwork—a cup of strawberry sorbet, which was churning just a few moments earlier. Whew, was it delicious! I bet it was the freshest I’ll ever eat.

Brian Tropiano via United with Love

The gelato is made to order in small batches. “An order comes in, and we make it fresh that day,” says Gianluigi. When a shipment gets to P&C, it was made that day or the day before—no later. The gelato operation gets hormone-free milk and cream delivered daily from a farm in Pennsylvania, and Gianluigi mixes his own sugar for the gelato in-house. Specialty ingredients like Sicilian pistachios and hazelnuts are shipped in from Italy.

Choices, choices

Gianluigi says that he has “lost count” of the total number of flavors the company has made—though a partial list of 250 can be found on their website. He says he takes suggestions, or just dreams up unusual combinations on his own to keep things interesting. Moving to the U.S. a decade ago exposed him to new international cuisines that he didn’t encounter in Italy, and has led to gelato flavors like Green Tea, Wasabi, and Thai Coconut Lemongrass.

When I ask about the difference between gelato and ice cream, Gianluigi is ready—he hands me an info sheet titled “Gelato vs. Ice Cream.” It explains that gelato has one third the fat content and half the calories of American ice cream. And because it has less fat, it does not freeze quite as solidly, making for a sensual melt-in-your-mouth quality.

A new game

Before he became a gelato maestro (no really, that’s his degree), Gianluigi was a rising water polo star. He left the sport after a dispute with his coach, and decided to turn his life toward desserts. He says what he learned from the game infuses the very spirit of Dolci. “If I am a competitor in my work ethic, it’s because of the sport—how to fight, how to reach a goal,” he tells me. “This is my game now.”

Brian Tropiano via United With Love

Dolci Gelato is a decidedly local company, with a family feel. Gianluigi lives five minutes from the gelato laboratory, and says he goes to the lab every day, leading his small staff (about 10 in all). He and his wife have two kids, and he still plays water polo recreationally in Rockville.

He says business is going great, and this June will be Dolci’s five year anniversary. His future goal (when he can find the time and the business partner) is to open a retail store. He dreams of selling pastries alongside the gelato (he’s also a pastry chef) and handmade chocolate from scratch. I got a little taste of his chocolate when I was there and let me tell you, it was amazing.

Are you hankering yet?

At P&C Market, we carry an endless variety of Dolci Gelati flavors, in a few different sizes. One of our favorite ways to enjoy it is to bring it over Lincoln Park on a hot day. Or, if you’re willing to share, it’s usually a crowd-pleaser at dinner parties. Gelato is, of course, an Italian treat. But you don’t have to hop a transatlantic flight to enjoy it.